Lockdown Sourdough

The surge in home baking.

About 5 years ago I blogged about the cult status of sourdough and included a recipe which works very well but, looking back now, feels overly complicated. Like many I returned to home baking during the Covid 19 lockdown and started baking sourdough again at home. I made the recipe I blogged in an earlier life but also tried several others and there was one that stood out. It came from a friend Paddy Williams, an excellent chef who runs a lovely restaurant, Kudu, in Peckham with his wife Amy. He posted his recipe on his Instagram account, so I gave it a go. For me it is head and shoulders above all the others I tried. Whether you are a Sourdough master or an absolute beginner it gives you a reliable dough with great fermentation and flavour producing a wonderful crust and crumb, and not much to go wrong. I hope he won’t mind me sharing it with you here.

It assumes you already have an active starter but if you need to make one please click on this link to my original Sourdough blog http://thecheffoundation.com/foodforthesoul/myth-busters-sourdough/

Paddy’s Sourdough

Levain

20g Starter + 40g Flour + 40g water

Dough

100g levain

400g flour Paddy uses 340g Strong white + 60g Wholemeal. I used 350g Strong white + 50g Rye but you can mix your own blend

10g salt

260g warm water

Before going to bed weigh out 20g of starter and add 40g flour + 40g warm water. This is the levain. Leave out overnight in a bowl covered with cling film

In the morning weigh out the 400g of flour and 10g of salt. Mix with 260g of warm water, cover and leave for about half an hour. This is the autolyse

Add the levain to the autolyse and knead for 10 minutes either by hand or in an electric mixer with a dough hook on a slow speed. If you prefer not to knead then the gluten will develop perfectly well on its own, just give the dough more folds, personally I like the process and finish from kneading by hand.

Place in a bowl and cover with cling film. Leave in a warm place to prove

Once the dough has started to rise (2 to 3 hours) give a wet fold and return to the bowl. Cover and leave to rest (1 to 2 hours)

Give another 2 wet folds making sure the dough has plenty of time to rest in between

Dry fold and shape and leave on the workbench for 10 minutes to rest

Final shape and place in a banneton or bowl lined with muslin dusted with flour. Fold over the muslin to cover the dough and leave to prove (1 to 2 hours). Once it has started to come up nicely place in the fridge overnight

In the morning preheat the oven to 230.C. Turn out dough, score the top and bake. When you put the dough in the oven pour some water into a tray on a lower shelf to create some steam

15 minutes at 230.C

25-30 minutes at 180.C

To check if the bread is cooked knock the bottom of the loaf. It should sound hollow

When you start to get low on starter feed overnight with equal amounts of flour and warm water

Eg: 100g starter +100g flour+100g water

This dough will cook very well in a Dutch oven if you have one

Here is a table with amounts for some different sized loaves. I use the smaller one as it fits my banneton better.

LevainSmaller LoafMedium LoafLarger Loaf
Starter202025
Flour404050
Water404050
    
Dough   
Levain100100125
Flour350400525
Water225260350
Salt101015

Links & Further Reading:

The Ultimate Guide to Sourdough Bread by Alice Webster

Myth busters-Sourdough

Kudu Collective

Dr Loosen Comes To Chelsea

Regulars will know that Last Drop Wines on the Kings Rd is one of my favourite wine shops in London so when Andrea, the owner, invited me to cook for a wine dinner she was hosting I jumped at the chance.

Dr Loosen Wines, 31 Days of German Riesling

Wines were all from the prestigious Dr Loosen Estate in Mosel showcasing traditional Riesling as part of the 31 Days of German Riesling so the menu had to match.

Chelsea Garden, 31 days of German Riesling

We were very fortunate to be offered a lovely private courtyard garden just off the Kings Rd and although it was Wimbledon week the weather stayed dry.

Guests were served Dr Loosen Sekt as aperitif followed by

 Asparagus, Radish, Buttermilk, Toasted Rye

Urziger Wurzgarten 2015

 Hake, Pea, Smoked Eel Broth

Erdener Treppchen 2015 & 2005

 Moroccan Chicken, Cauliflower Cous Cous, Kale

Red Slate 2015

 Cheese Pear & Honey

 Grilled Peach, Cherry, Elderflower

Wehlener Sonnenhur Auslese 2015

 

Matt Giedraitis, Dr Loosen Wines, 31 Days of German Riesling

Matt Giedraitis, the export director, from the Dr Loosen Estate was on hand to talk us through the wines, informative and entertaining.

Fraulein Andrea living the dream 31 Days of German Riesling

The evening was hosted by Andrea from Last Drop wines whose dressing up box covers most of the major wine growing areas of the world so the Rhine Valley wasn’t much of a challenge.

Prussian Vineyard Classification 1868

Wine buffs will know that Mosel was largely unaffected by the phylloxera outbreak that devastated most of the vineyards in Europe in the 1870’s so some of these vines are very old indeed. Star wine of the night was definitely the Erdener Treppchen. Best food/wine pairing Moroccan Chicken, Cauliflower Cous Cous & Kale with the Red Slate 2015.

 Andrea hosts regular Tuesday evening tastings in the shop so contact Last Drop Wines for details of future tastings and the next wine dinner.

 

Great Wines for Under £20

Having been spoilt last week with a visit to Robert Parkers Matter of Taste event in Covent Garden where I had the opportunity to taste many once in a lifetime wines way out of my budget I have been looking at everyday wines that we can all access for under £20. There are so many wine stores now, supermarkets, online, independent retailers, wine clubs etc….. too much choice. I have my own favourite wine shops in London but many of us buy wine as part of our weekly supermarket shop so to kick off I have selected one supermarket and 1 independent retailer but there are plenty more.

For me Waitrose probably has the best supermarket wine department and even the small stores carry some good bottles. Bigger stores offer a great selection and carry a fine wine section too.

Here are few recommendations under £20 currently available.

White Wines

Zind Humbrecht French White £17.99

Blended Alsace wine from one of the great houses.

Catena Chardonnay Argentina £12.99

Bold oak aged Chardonnay, they make great reds too

Cune Barrel fermented White Rioja £8.24

Traditional White Rioja always good

Red Wines

 

Michel Rolland Clos de Los Siete, Argentina £15.75

Malbec/Merlot Blend

1st Press Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, USA £17.99

Powerful California Cabernet

Guigal Cote de Rhone, France £10.99

One of the great producers in the Rhone Valley Syrah/Grenache

Valdivieso Merlot, Chile £12.49

Solid fruit driven Merlot from this very reliable new world producer

 

One of my favourite stand alone wine shops is Last Drop Wines on the Kings Rd. Andrea selects all the wines personally, cares about every aspect of her business and has some great wines under £20.

She also holds regular Tuesday evening tutored tastings.

 

White Wines

Graham Beck Brut NV South Africa £13.99

Exceptional value Sparkling Wine

Gentil 2012, Hugel Alsace £14.99

A timeless blend of regional varieties great with food or without

Vouvray, Marc Bredif 2012 £15.99

Often overlooked old master of Chenin Blanc

Red Wines

Colonial Estate Old Vine Shiraz, 2011 Australia £13.99

Rich fruit driven old vine Shiraz

Chateau Barde-Haut, 2006 St Emilion, France £19.99

Good quality claret with some decent bottle age at an affordable price

This is just a taster, there are plenty more and most wine shops are very helpful these days with well trained staff on hand to offer advice and guidance. Some have online chat facilities on their website (Oddbins) to help you choose depending on style of wine, budget etc.

Prices correct at the time of publishing

Corks Photo by Elisha Terada 

 

 

Afternoon Tea at Sosharu

Afternoon tea in London is big business. The Ritz Hotel serves up to 400 every day and menus start at £54 (£30 for children) and to be honest it doesn’t get much better than this provided you can afford it. All the big Plazas with doormen in tails follow suit.

For a restaurant to serve afternoon tea is quite unusual. You have just finished serving lunch, kitchen is getting cleaned down, staff on a break, restaurant is being laid up for the evening service and those couple of hours are a vital respite between shows for all departments. Last thing you need is a coach load of people coming in for cake. Specialised service, extra pressure on the kitchen, very labour intensive pastry items that have to be just right, increased wastage, staff costs etc etc.

So why has Sosharu, a Japanese Restaurant in Farringdon, part of the Jason Atherton group, started serving tea. Well I was lucky enough to be invited to try it at an event hosted by Mash Purveyors and Weiss Chocolate. Regular readers will know that Mash always lay on a great spread and today was no exception with David Swain and Alex Jazevica both indahouse.

At 4.00pm on a Monday the restaurant is buzzing there are many familiar faces here, top chefs from the London restaurant scene, several pastry chefs checking things out, restaurateurs, foodies, the blogger elite. Head Chef Alex Craciun  and pastry chef Emily Argent are somewhere in the background working their socks off!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Table lay up was simple, classy and straight Sosharu. We started with Tuna Temaki, tartare of tuna, Tobiko (flying fish roe/not easy to harvest) on a Nori/Wakami/Tapioca (I,m guessing here) cracker basket thing ….bloody delicious total cucumber sandwich wipeout. Then Monaka, Foie Gras, Muscatel Grapes (Mash at their best) Weiss praline powder all contained in an air dried biscuit sandwich thing that defies description so I had to have a look inside before taking a bite.

Sweet things started with Melon Nigiri, watermelon like you have never tasted, clean, minimal sugar, flavour that lingers and shouts WATERMELON. I asked Emily  the Pastry Chef what was in it but she wouldn’t even hint at what she done to the watermelon.

Photo courtesy of the lovely lady I sat next to from Pure Waffle in Kensington

Next was a Strawberry and Green Tea Roll. Matcha Tea Roll with iced strawberry and Weiss white chocolate. We finished with Chocolate and Sesame Praline Dome. Skill, art, precision and taste, light meltinthemouth stuff that really showed off the quality of the Weiss Li Chu Vietnamese chocolate.

 

 

 

At £28 a go Sosharu Menu  is affordable luxury, innovative, and quite simply delicious. The range of teas is also a welcome change from Assam and Earl Grey (both of which I love) I tried Sencha Asamushi. As someone who has spent their entire life in the kitchen and have had the good fortune to work with some exceptional chefs some might say I have become very particular about what I eat….fussy….yes…..hard to please…..maybe.

I was blown away…get down there.

Big thank you to Mash for inviting me, Weiss for their amazing chocolate and party bag and Sosharu for deciding to up the game on that great British institution afternoon tea.

Sprig-A Vegan-Friendly Vegetarian Pop Up

sprig-platform1Sprig is a vegan friendly vegetarian pop up created by ex Dinner at Heston and Chiltern Firehouse chef Peter Pickering.

Soundbites was lucky enough to catch up with Peter during his latest event at the Brockley Mess, sample some dishes and also help out in the kitchen.

Peter’s cooking is light, respectful, informed and delicious. Vegetables are treated with the respect and care normally associated with fancy cuts of meat and fish, attention to detail and a passion for flavour are apparent in every mouthful.

sprig-snacks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Click Here to listen to the #soundbites interview with Peter. Also available onitunes, Android, Soundcloud

To find out more visit the Sprig website  or get tickets for his next pop up Click here

Pass The Crickets

Bug-718x523People in many countries have very restricted access to protein in their daily diets, some 795 million people in the world do not have enough food to lead a healthy active life and many more are undernourished .(WFP Hunger statistics).  Governments in many underdeveloped countries are turning to the farming of insects to help fill this gap. One of the companies pioneering this in the UK is Mophagy and I was fortunate to meet Harry Harrison, one of the co-founders, earlier this year.

He gave me a real insight into this relatively new food industry and some samples to try too.

Click on this link to listen to Pass The Crickets

Mophagy also do great work with a children’s charity in the Congo Farms for Orphans

 

 

Soul Food Guru “On Air”

microphoneThe Chef Foundation and Food for the Soul is about to launch a series of online podcasts, snapshots of food that are all around us. What to eat, new talent, trending street food, swanky dining, feeding the homeless, best (and worst) supermarket deals, Fairtrade, school meals, imports, nutrition and anything else that needs shouting about.

These will be live interviews, chat forums, music events, fly on the wall documentaries, workshops, soapboxing, etc.  Available on internet radio, the website and social media. Topics already lined up are cooking for the homeless, creating a successful street food stall, financing a restaurant by Crowdfunding and living on bugs (as a source of protein).

 

Our first production is in the studio being cut to pieces right now.

 

 

My Favourite Wine Shops

wine rackSupermarkets have totally changed the way we buy alcohol. The booze section in my local Sainsbury takes up 3 aisles, is located near the entrance and the choice is MASSIVE. It is so easy to pick up a bottle of wine (Gin or beer) with your other shopping and there are always deals and bargains. BUT as a discerning drinker, without a huge budget, I rarely find anything I fancy. Waitrose probably have the most interesting supermarket wine shelf.

There are plenty of independent wine shops offering great products at sensible prices. They do not provide the convenience of supermarkets, unless you happen to live next door, but have more interesting wines (beers & spirits) knowledgeable staff and a more enjoyable shopping experience. Here are a few of my favourites in London.

The Samplersampler

This has to be top of my list. there are 2 shops, South Ken & Islington, but the Kensington branch is by far the best. They operate a sampling system where you buy wine credits on a card and can then taste wines. There are usually about 80 to choose from and some of them are once in a lifetime opportunities. Today they have Chateau Margaux 1924 & 1959, Haut Brion 1989 and Penfolds Grange Bin 95 2002. These are not cheap as you can imagine and there are plenty of more affordable samples too but it is difficult not to try one when you are browsing other wines. Sampler’s strength is independent growers and there is lots on the shelf you will never have heard of. Staff are very knowledgeable, not pushy and let you browse at your own pace. The range of growers Champagne is exceptional.

I bought some 4 Kilos and Domaine of the Bee on my last visit. They also stock Zalto glasses (simply the best) and have a cafe/bar down stairs. The only problem with this shop is that I always end up spending more than I planned.

35 Thurloe Place SW7 2HP

266 Upper Street N1 2UQ

 

last dropLast Drop Wines

This stand alone, owner run, old style wine shop is the perfect antidote to supermarket shopping. Andrea knows her wines and her customers, picks all the wines personally and cares about every aspect of her business. The wines are very well displayed and easy to navigate. She always has some older vintages (claret especially) and a good choice of magnums and stickies.IMG_1952

Prices are very good.There are regular informal wine tastings and events, usually with some delicious canapés. I wish I lived nearer!

492 Kings Road  SW10 0LE

 

 

PhilglasPhilglas & Swiggot

Another great owner run wine shop with more than one branch. Phil & Swig is where I buy most of my wine as it is quite close to home. They have a good choice from all over the world, South Africa is particularly strong with some great wines from Argentina and Italy too. Good selection of spirits, single malts, micro-beers etc. Last visit I bought some Pulenta Gran Corte,(delicious and very good value) and some old school Gewurztraminer from Rolly Gassman.

They have spent a lot of time and money on the website that is excellent, easy to navigate with good photos of the wines. Also stock Reidel & Zalto glasses with some great decanters and wine accessories.

22 New Quebec Street, W1H 7SB

64 Hill Rise ,Richmond, TW10 6UB

21 Northcote Road, SW11 1NG

Others worth a visit

berry brosBerry Brothers & Rudd. An institution and still fabulous with some good value case discounts if you are buying in bulk.

 

 

 

dvineDVine Wines. Boutique wine shop with a nice little wine bar too. Tasting system in place so you can try before you buy.

 

 

 

bottle apostleBottle Apostle. Several branches, lots of choice, excellent website with tasting notes etc + regular events & pop ups.

 

 

 

vagaboindVagabond. Award-winning wine bar and shop, always something interesting, lovely staff.

Chef Foundation Diet-recipes ideas

Hopefully some of you have started the Chef Foundation diet and are now over one week in and have got your heads round the concept and are enjoying a wheat and animal-fat free month. I have been eating lots of fruit, salads, soups and roasted vegetables and as promised here are a few simple recipes to help spice up meal times for you. These can be eaten with other items or as they are as a snack if you get peckish during the day.

You don’t need to weigh or measure anything for these recipes all amounts are just guidelines so just make things so they taste right to you. Add things like salt and pepper bit by bit. You can always add more but it is difficult to take it out!

Smashed Guacomole

guacomole

  • 2 ripe avocados
  • 1 red chilli
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1 finely chopped shallot
  • Handful of coriander
  • Juice of 1 lime
  • Splash of House dressing/olive oil
  • Salt & Pepper

Method

  1. Peel and stone the avocados
  2. Place in a bowl and crush with the back of a fork
  3. Add finely chopped chilli , shallot and garlic to taste
  4. Add the juice of 1 lime
  5. Add a handful of roughly chopped coriander
  6. Add a splash of house dressing (see recipe) or Olive oil
  7. Salt and pepper to taste
  8. Stir
  9. Some people like to add some chopped tomato too.

Salsa

SalsaThis is an excellent addition whether you are dieting or not and can be made with dozens of variations. My favourites are Black Bean Salsa and also Basil and Ginger Salsa and I make mine quite wet but you can add any ingredients you have to hand and just experiment

Core items

  1. Sweetcorn (fresh, tinned to frozen)
  2. Chopped tomato (fresh or tinned)
  3. Chilli
  4. Garlic
  5. Herbs (basil, parsley, tarragon, coriander) all work well
  6. Chopped peppers
  7. Sliced spring onions
  8. Chopped Cucumber
  9. Chopped Onion/shallot
  10. House dressing/olive oil
  11. Optional extras black beans, cannellini beans, avocado, roast aubergine, mango  and much more

Method

  1. Chop and mix
  2. Season to taste

White Bean Hummus

white bean

This is great as a dip for raw veg sticks or  thin it down with water for a sauce or dressing.

  • 400g  Cannellini beans (tinned or dried)If using dried beans soak overnight in cold water with a teaspoon of Bicarb, this will help soften the skins then cook in fresh water till soft.
  • Handful of Coriander
  • 1 clove of Garlic (you can always add more!)
  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • a teaspoon of Tahini (optional…I don’t bother)
  • Glug of House dressing
  • Salt & pepper
  • Pinch of Cayenne pepper or a little Tobasco

Method

  1. Blend all the ingredients except the coriander in a food processor until smooth
  2. Check the flavour, consistancy and seasoning
  3. Finish with roughly chopped coriander and make be some toasted pine nuts

Easy Chutney

Chutney

 

  • 1 kg overripe tomatoes (roughly chopped)
  • 450g chopped Onions
  • 2 cloves Garlic finely chopped
  • 2 eating Apples, skin on just core and chop
  • 2 Cloves
  • pinch Ginger
  • pinch Cinnamon
  • pinch  Mixed spice
  • 1 shot brandy
  • 300g Sultanas
  • 200g Brown sugar
  • 500ml balsamic vinegar

Method

  1. Put the onions, spices and liquids in a saucepan and boil until the liquids have reduced by half
  2. Add the rest of the ingredients and cook out slowly for about an hour stirring regularly
  3. The chutney will gradually turn brown as the liquids evaporate, make sure it doesn’t burn or stick to the bottom of the pan
  4. Allow to cool